Olivia in Québec City, An American Tale
It was love at first sight when Olivia travelled to Québec City from Florida in the summer of 2023, entranced by the ease of exploring the city’s historic corners and local neighbourhoods—an affordable slice of European charm without crossing the Atlantic.
I fell in love with the city in summer, that was the moment where it all kicked off, like rose-tinted glasses and the most optimistic view I could have of the city. It’s still like that, the rose-tinted glasses are still on.
recalls Olivia as we sit at Pub l’Oncle Antoine, talking about her new life in Québec City. Captivated by the vibrant local culture, delicious food, and friendly locals, Olivia returned to experience the city in winter – a bold choice for a girl from sunny Florida.
When Olivia decided to make Québec City her home, she dove in with both feet, intoxicated by the idea of a new life in a different country and a different language. In the weeks leading up to her move, she changed her location on the dating apps to Québec City and met her now boyfriend, Victor.
They had their first date shortly after she moved to the city, and now live together in his familial home – throwing Olivia into full French immersion early on.
Winter Magic in Québec City
There is something truly special about this city in winter, when the mansard roofs and cobblestone streets are coated with snow, festive lights are on display, and the crispy air kisses the skin. It’s a time when we seek warmth; sitting at an outdoor fireplace, relaxing in a cozy café, and connecting with locals.
Many visitors to this magical city feel nervous about not being fluent in French or being welcomed as an American. It is a popular topic on Facebook groups and subreddits, and Olivia wondered about it as well. Can someone with basic high school French skills, or no language skills at all, have a wonderful vacation in Québec City?
I found that since living here, people really try to introduce you to Québec culture. They want to talk about Québec. They love it when you speak French, but if you don’t, they don’t care. I think there is a big impression with tourists that they are not going to be welcomed here as Americans. As long as you say Bonjour, that’s already a great start.
Exploring Old Québec and Beyond
Olivia suggests spending a full day walking around Old Québec, admiring the French and British architectural intricacies, and getting cozy in cafés or by outdoor fireplaces.
And in winter, Old Québec also offers iconic activities like the Terrasse Dufferin slides: a quintessential 244-meter-long winter activity with pretty views of Fairmont Château Frontenac and the St. Lawrence River, which blur a little as you race down at speeds of almost 40 miles per hour! It’s best enjoyed at night, under the moonlight.
Take a day to wander into neighbourhoods like Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Limoilou, where you’ll find, award-winning restaurants, quaint local boutiques, and lovely cafés – in Limoilou, Café Mila is one of Olivia’s favourites. Smith Café in the Plains of Abraham, however, is where you’ll spot Olivia most of the time. It’s a serene spot for a café and croissant.
Four days is the perfect number of days to explore the city. There are so many outdoor and recreational activities to do, and in winter it is so tranquil.
Winter Activities Like a Local
In winter, living like a local means bundling up with a warm jacket, boots, a tuque and gloves, and enjoying outdoor activities. The most popular being our world-famous winter festival, Québec City Winter Carnival, which takes place at the beginning of February each year. In Québec City, hugging Bonhomme and enjoying an outdoor concert while drinking Caribou (a concoction of mulled wine and whiskey) from a plastic cane is iconic.
Winter hiking is another popular activity with locals, and there are hundreds of miles of trails to enjoy. One of Olivia’s favourites includes an icy tunnel-like experience in Parc naturel régional de Portneuf. The frozen waterfall tunnels in the Sainte-Anne River gorge are a can’t-miss experience.
Olivia’s Favourite Spots for Food and Music
When Olivia is craving delicious vegan food or looking to relax and enjoy local music, she has a couple of favourite spots to recommend.
Bistro l’Orygine, led by the talented chef Sabrina Lemay in Place-Royale, is a must-visit. This gourmet restaurant is known for its seasonal menus utilizing fresh local ingredients. Every dish here is a work of art, and most have a vegan option – which is fabulous for Olivia, who became vegan shortly after moving to Québec City.
She’s also a big lover of Bistro Le Sam, where its tall windows overlook the St. Lawrence River, complementing the restaurant’s friendly dining experience – with a dash of lush Great Gatsby vibes.
And for live music, you’ll probably find Olivia at Bar Ste-Angèle. It’s known for lively jazz performances, jovial local characters, and affordable drinks. It’s honestly one of the best bars in Old Québec, and a bit of a hidden gem tucked away on hilly rue Ste-Angèle.
A Passion for Local Fashion and Culture
When it comes to shopping, Olivia talks passionately about Karkass and Atelier La Pomme, the clothing boutiques where she works in Old Québec’s lower town. While she loves her bosses and working in fashion, it’s the everyday conversations with visiting Americans and other tourists about life in Québec that make her eyes twinkle.
Falling in Love with Québec City
Olivia’s love for this city, for Québec culture and people, is infectious. In a way, she is a real-life version of Emily in Paris – without the tumultuous love life drama. Olivia’s biggest advice for Americans wishing to visit Québec City is to arrive with an open heart and a smile, enjoy the hotspots, but make time to discover local neighbourhoods, dine outside Old Québec, and say “Bonjour” with a smile.
Honestly, Québecers are some of the kindest and most generous people you will meet.
So, come to Québec City prepared to fall in love with its warmth – even on the coldest days of the year.
